Hello;
How should this be used to configure the best color for planetary, deep-sky, etc. observation?
How does this work in terms of color control?
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- pastorgalactico
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How does this work in terms of color control?
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J.Tapioles (Pastorgalactico)
Obs.Orion Cod.MPC R50
TL 16" F4.5 Giordano.Picgoto ESP32go V5
Refr 120mm F5
Ocul. Explorer 82º.
Barl. X2-X3- X5 Explorer
Planetario informático Guia 9.1
Player One Uranus C .
Cor. coma HR explorer.
Redu. focal 0.67 Braña.
Obs.Orion Cod.MPC R50
TL 16" F4.5 Giordano.Picgoto ESP32go V5
Refr 120mm F5
Ocul. Explorer 82º.
Barl. X2-X3- X5 Explorer
Planetario informático Guia 9.1
Player One Uranus C .
Cor. coma HR explorer.
Redu. focal 0.67 Braña.
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Re: How does this work in terms of color control?
Hi,
my recommendation is to leave all the colour balance controls (R,G,B) at their default values (all set to zero for Player One cameras). Your on screen image may appear to have a green/yellow colour cast to it, but that can easily be fixed in the final image (as part of stacking and processing). Some people do like to use those controls to get the on screen image to look right in terms of colours, but I don't like that approach as it can lead to other problems (for instance changing the settings between taking darks and lights and ending up with mismatched dark frames).
The synthetic blue option is really only for those imaging with achromatic refractors or other telescopes that give lots of chromatic aberration - it throws away the blue channel of the image and synthesizes one from the red/green channels. This allows you to get best focus in the red/green and ignore the 'blue halo' effect that you often get with chromatic aberration. If you are using a reflector, an SCT or an apochromatic refractor then you have no need to use this option.
cheers,
Robin
my recommendation is to leave all the colour balance controls (R,G,B) at their default values (all set to zero for Player One cameras). Your on screen image may appear to have a green/yellow colour cast to it, but that can easily be fixed in the final image (as part of stacking and processing). Some people do like to use those controls to get the on screen image to look right in terms of colours, but I don't like that approach as it can lead to other problems (for instance changing the settings between taking darks and lights and ending up with mismatched dark frames).
The synthetic blue option is really only for those imaging with achromatic refractors or other telescopes that give lots of chromatic aberration - it throws away the blue channel of the image and synthesizes one from the red/green channels. This allows you to get best focus in the red/green and ignore the 'blue halo' effect that you often get with chromatic aberration. If you are using a reflector, an SCT or an apochromatic refractor then you have no need to use this option.
cheers,
Robin