After purchasing the Revolution Imager2, my next step is to capture images using SharpCap Ver 4.1. However, I am having trouble getting an image with the software. SharpCap recognizes the camera as USB2- PC Camera (theRI2) but on “Live View” all I get is a blue screen where the image should be. Following SharpCap manual troubleshooting, FAQs and the Forum on your site, I have tried many different USB cables and ports on two different laptop computers as suggested, but with no luck. I do notice a “small green bar” across the top of the blue image screen “flickering” as if it is trying to do “something”. If anyone is familiar with this problem and has found a solution, it would be appreciated that it be shared with the forum community and us “non-geek” astronomers.
Info:
Sharp Cap Ver 4.1 - 64 bit
Laptop #1: HP Envy
i5 – 13th Gen Intel Core at 1.3 GHz
64 bit
Windows 11 Ver 23H2
Laptop #2: Lenovo Yoga 7
i5 – 11th Gen Intel Core at 2.4 GHz
64 bit
Windows 10 Ver 22H2
Blue screen (no image) using RI2
- admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14385
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:52 pm
- Location: Vale of the White Horse, UK
- Contact:
Re: Blue screen (no image) using RI2
Hi,
The revolution imager series can be a bit tricky because they are analogue video cameras that produce a composite video signal. That means to get the image into the computer you need a 'Video Frame Grabber' USB device. As well as connecting the video feed from the camera to the frame grabber, you may need to setup the frame grabber for the correct sort of video signal (ie NTSC vs PAL etc). The setup for this can usually be found by ussing either the 'Filter Options' or 'Pin Options' buttons in the controls on the right in SharpCap.
I have seen cases with these sort of video frame grabber devices where you get a blue image when there is no input signal detected, so that could be worth considering. There is a little more in the SharpCap user manual here : https://docs.sharpcap.co.uk/4.1/#Frame%20Grabbers
cheers,
Robin
The revolution imager series can be a bit tricky because they are analogue video cameras that produce a composite video signal. That means to get the image into the computer you need a 'Video Frame Grabber' USB device. As well as connecting the video feed from the camera to the frame grabber, you may need to setup the frame grabber for the correct sort of video signal (ie NTSC vs PAL etc). The setup for this can usually be found by ussing either the 'Filter Options' or 'Pin Options' buttons in the controls on the right in SharpCap.
I have seen cases with these sort of video frame grabber devices where you get a blue image when there is no input signal detected, so that could be worth considering. There is a little more in the SharpCap user manual here : https://docs.sharpcap.co.uk/4.1/#Frame%20Grabbers
cheers,
Robin
Re: Blue screen (no image) using RI2
Robin.
Thank you for the reply. The info you gave was very interesting and informative. I have read your reply and the related section in the SharpCap manual many times, understanding the basics of the "frame grabbers" etc.; the rest of the connected devices are a bit beyond sensible and "above my head". I will use the RI2 for simple observations and now willing to purchase an appropriate astronomy camera, easy to use with Sharpcap, without having all those cables/connections as mentioned above. A color camera is preferred (and for deep sky) using the 1.25 eyepiece connection without having to get a "bank loan". Can you recommend a good camera(s)? I have been following/reading SharpCap Forums for quite some time and fully trust your recommendations.
Thank you for the reply. The info you gave was very interesting and informative. I have read your reply and the related section in the SharpCap manual many times, understanding the basics of the "frame grabbers" etc.; the rest of the connected devices are a bit beyond sensible and "above my head". I will use the RI2 for simple observations and now willing to purchase an appropriate astronomy camera, easy to use with Sharpcap, without having all those cables/connections as mentioned above. A color camera is preferred (and for deep sky) using the 1.25 eyepiece connection without having to get a "bank loan". Can you recommend a good camera(s)? I have been following/reading SharpCap Forums for quite some time and fully trust your recommendations.
- admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14385
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:52 pm
- Location: Vale of the White Horse, UK
- Contact:
Re: Blue screen (no image) using RI2
Hi,
a dedicated USB camera will definitely make things easier for you. It's hard to give exact recommendations on the make/model to choose - particularly as these depend on the type of astro imaging you want to do and also on the model of telescope you are using (focal length, etc).
That being said, I would certainly consider models using the Sony IMX585 (lower price) or IMX533 (slightly more expensive) sensors as good starting points these days. Choosing a model that has built in cooling adds to the cost, but makes the camera more suitable for deep sky long exposure targets if that is your goal. Take a look at the field of view calculator (https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/) and enter details of your telescope and the camera you are considering to see how much of the sky you would see in one view.
cheers,
Robin
a dedicated USB camera will definitely make things easier for you. It's hard to give exact recommendations on the make/model to choose - particularly as these depend on the type of astro imaging you want to do and also on the model of telescope you are using (focal length, etc).
That being said, I would certainly consider models using the Sony IMX585 (lower price) or IMX533 (slightly more expensive) sensors as good starting points these days. Choosing a model that has built in cooling adds to the cost, but makes the camera more suitable for deep sky long exposure targets if that is your goal. Take a look at the field of view calculator (https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/) and enter details of your telescope and the camera you are considering to see how much of the sky you would see in one view.
cheers,
Robin
Re: Blue screen (no image) using RI2
Robin,
Thank you for your reply and recommendations. I will be purchasing a ZWO ASI585MC camera in a few months along with a new laptop (MSI with i7 core at 3.8 GHz and memory space in the TBs). The laptop has only USB C and I plan to use a USB C to USB hub. Have not checked the forum yet to see if users reported any problems using a hub. The camera gets power through the USB. The guys at High Point believe not but I must go with your answer. If there are reported problems, I will let the guys know at High Point for their customers and I will reconsider the computer. Can hardly wait to get going again but "homeowners insurance" comes first ...... what a drag.
Thank you again.
Thank you for your reply and recommendations. I will be purchasing a ZWO ASI585MC camera in a few months along with a new laptop (MSI with i7 core at 3.8 GHz and memory space in the TBs). The laptop has only USB C and I plan to use a USB C to USB hub. Have not checked the forum yet to see if users reported any problems using a hub. The camera gets power through the USB. The guys at High Point believe not but I must go with your answer. If there are reported problems, I will let the guys know at High Point for their customers and I will reconsider the computer. Can hardly wait to get going again but "homeowners insurance" comes first ...... what a drag.
Thank you again.
Re: Blue screen (no image) using RI2
Robin,
Have been all over the forum and camera specific for ZWO ASI585MC. I see many user problems listed with ZWO cameras but not the ASI585. High Point customer reviews report star cluster images captured basically right out of the box using the ASI585 (4.8 stars). That's my choice unless you convince me otherwise.
Thanks.
Have been all over the forum and camera specific for ZWO ASI585MC. I see many user problems listed with ZWO cameras but not the ASI585. High Point customer reviews report star cluster images captured basically right out of the box using the ASI585 (4.8 stars). That's my choice unless you convince me otherwise.
Thanks.
- admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14385
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:52 pm
- Location: Vale of the White Horse, UK
- Contact:
Re: Blue screen (no image) using RI2
Hi,
I don't have the ZWO version of the 585 camera myself, but do have a few other ZWO cameras (which I find reliable) and a 585 camera from another manufacturer, so I can confirm that it's a useful camera for getting started.
90% of the time (possibly 99%) hubs work fine and don't cause problems. Just now and then they do - unfortunately it's hard to predict when that problem will occur. Good quality hubs (made by manufacturers that you have heard of) tend to do better than cheap Amazon/Ebay hubs.
Hopefully the laptop has more than 1 USB port (even if they are all USB-C) - I would be looking for a minimum of 2 and ideally 3, since a good setup is to run the camera back direct to the laptop, then connect everything else that needs USB to a hub on the other port. It looks like you can also buy 'USB C to USB A (3.0)' adapters that plug into USB-C and have a short cable then a normal USB 3 socket on the end, allowing direct connection via one of those to a USB C port
cheers,
Robin
I don't have the ZWO version of the 585 camera myself, but do have a few other ZWO cameras (which I find reliable) and a 585 camera from another manufacturer, so I can confirm that it's a useful camera for getting started.
90% of the time (possibly 99%) hubs work fine and don't cause problems. Just now and then they do - unfortunately it's hard to predict when that problem will occur. Good quality hubs (made by manufacturers that you have heard of) tend to do better than cheap Amazon/Ebay hubs.
Hopefully the laptop has more than 1 USB port (even if they are all USB-C) - I would be looking for a minimum of 2 and ideally 3, since a good setup is to run the camera back direct to the laptop, then connect everything else that needs USB to a hub on the other port. It looks like you can also buy 'USB C to USB A (3.0)' adapters that plug into USB-C and have a short cable then a normal USB 3 socket on the end, allowing direct connection via one of those to a USB C port
cheers,
Robin