Hi,
you could try SharpCap 4.0 if you are not already using it - that has better star detection code than 3.2, which might help the plate solving.
It sounds like frames are only being plate solved a small fraction of the time. This is possible to ignore for the first two measurements, as each only needs one good result to work. The final adjustment phase needs almost all the frames to work to give constant updates.
There are some hints on how to deal with this problem here : https://docs.sharpcap.co.uk/4.0/#Stuck% ... ong%20time
I hope Google translate does a decent job of translating the documentation for you
Robin
ferrec (novato a la vista)
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hola Robin
Probaremos con el 4.0
Si de momento el Sr. de Google funciona, se entiende todo bastante bien.
Probaremos con el 4.0
Si de momento el Sr. de Google funciona, se entiende todo bastante bien.
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hola Robin
Hay que tener alguna configuración de cámara (zwo 183 MC) concreta para la PA?
Gracias.
Saludos,
Hay que tener alguna configuración de cámara (zwo 183 MC) concreta para la PA?
Gracias.
Saludos,
- admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 13338
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:52 pm
- Location: Vale of the White Horse, UK
- Contact:
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hi,
it's the field of view that matters - calculate the field of view from the camera and telescope combination and check that it falls within the supported range. Ideally around 1 degree in each direction works fine - this is achieved (for instance) by using a guide camera (ASI120MM etc) with a 200mm focal length guide scope.
Your 183 camera has a sensor about 3x bigger in each direction, so you would get an FOV about 3 degrees on a side with a 200mm focal length, or 1 degree on a side with 600mm focal length. Anything longer than about 800-900mm focal length may not work.
Robin
it's the field of view that matters - calculate the field of view from the camera and telescope combination and check that it falls within the supported range. Ideally around 1 degree in each direction works fine - this is achieved (for instance) by using a guide camera (ASI120MM etc) with a 200mm focal length guide scope.
Your 183 camera has a sensor about 3x bigger in each direction, so you would get an FOV about 3 degrees on a side with a 200mm focal length, or 1 degree on a side with 600mm focal length. Anything longer than about 800-900mm focal length may not work.
Robin
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hola Robin,
Esta configuración es la que voy a utilizar, es correcta?
Cámara ZWO ASI 183 MC
Tubo guía TS Optics (acodado)
Apertura: 50mm.
Longitud focal: 208mm.
Gracias.
Saludos,
Esta configuración es la que voy a utilizar, es correcta?
Cámara ZWO ASI 183 MC
Tubo guía TS Optics (acodado)
Apertura: 50mm.
Longitud focal: 208mm.
Gracias.
Saludos,
- admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 13338
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:52 pm
- Location: Vale of the White Horse, UK
- Contact:
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hi,
yes, that setup should work fine - the field of view will be about 3 degrees. The only thing to check is can you get focus? With a diagnoal, and using the 183C which has the sensor set well back behind the 1.25" nosepiece, can you get the camera sensor close enough in to bring stars into focus.
Robin
yes, that setup should work fine - the field of view will be about 3 degrees. The only thing to check is can you get focus? With a diagnoal, and using the 183C which has the sensor set well back behind the 1.25" nosepiece, can you get the camera sensor close enough in to bring stars into focus.
Robin
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hola Robin
Utilizo una diagonal dieléctrica de Auriga, no suelo tener problema para hacer foco.
Mejor utilizarla o no?
Gracias y disculpa por preguntar tanto.
Saludos
Utilizo una diagonal dieléctrica de Auriga, no suelo tener problema para hacer foco.
Mejor utilizarla o no?
Gracias y disculpa por preguntar tanto.
Saludos
- admin
- Site Admin
- Posts: 13338
- Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:52 pm
- Location: Vale of the White Horse, UK
- Contact:
Re: ferrec (novato a la vista)
Hi,
better not to use the diagonal if you can avoid it - it won't stop the polar alignment from working, but it probably increases the likely amount of flex in the guide camera mounting, which can lead to incorrect results. For correct results you need to make sure that the guide scope/camera does not move relative to the mount axis as you rotate the mount. Make sure everything is tightly attached and tie cables up (the weight of a hanging cable can pull on the camera and affect the results).
thanks,
Robin
better not to use the diagonal if you can avoid it - it won't stop the polar alignment from working, but it probably increases the likely amount of flex in the guide camera mounting, which can lead to incorrect results. For correct results you need to make sure that the guide scope/camera does not move relative to the mount axis as you rotate the mount. Make sure everything is tightly attached and tie cables up (the weight of a hanging cable can pull on the camera and affect the results).
thanks,
Robin