SharpCap Forums

You can currently do this. Perhaps you just need to change the way your sequence is written. My bare-bones but reliable sequence is in the link below. I have some more complicated ones but the idea is the same. I keep the images and dither in the same sequence and then auto-focus between imaging run...

Sure is....see documents here https://docs.sharpcap.co.uk/4.0/17_Focusing.htm#_Toc523950208 I think to focus on planets you will still have to control the EAF but deep sky can be automated. It will take some practice but once you dial it in the tool is very robust and consistent. I use the multi-sta...

How many steps are you moving between stops? Few steps will result in a flat curve. Your gear will also make a difference. A higher focal length will result in a larger focus zone so you will have a different shaped curve. Focusers can also make a difference, different move the draw tube at differen...

Select the darks option and set the exposure limit to the same time as your flats. You will have to go and manually change the file name to reflect that it is not a normal dark after.

Overshoot is all the rage with auto-focus these days. I bet some people don't consider SC when they learn it doesn't have the feature. I don't think they would take your auto-focus routine seriously as they view overshoot as a must have feature for reliable auto-focus.

Thank you Robin, Just to clarify, if I use livestack (which I'm already quite familiar) without flats or bias applied and just saved the raw files...would this be all I need in order to dither and then stack later in APP where I would apply both flats and bias? Thanks in advance, Joe You are correc...

SC already kinda has it....

viewtopic.php?t=3845

Half way down Robin talks about improving the tool to attack gradients a little better.

I've messed with backlash overshoot and it does work. I still use normal backlash compensation because I've dialed in my backlash numbers perfectly and it works for me. That being said I do agree being able to add overshot in the File/Hardware/focuser area would be easiest and attract more people to...

I see you're using a 120mini and guide scope. If I remember correctly I used about 6-8 second exposures and low gain when I PA with my 120 and guide scope. The hard part is getting SC to see the stars and not the noise that a non-cooled camera brings to the table. My cooled camera can get away with ...

Is your camera cooled? Full gain is probably too much. If your camera isn't cooled full gain would create so much noise the image would have a ton of noise. Even with a cooled camera full gain would be too much. Try 25% to 50% gain and 3 -5 second exposures. Adjust the noise and black level until yo...