SharpCap Forums

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Dave

Thanks Mike.

Dave

Robin I fully support your views on DSLR support in SharpCap. Here are some links and my thoughts. ASCOM DSLR support seems to start with (2018): https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/317522-ascomdslr-ascom-driver-for-dslr-camers-canon-nikon/ This was then forked to (2020): https://www.cloudynights.com...

Mike Thanks for that. My Canon 7D MK2 has stopped working. To try to debug this I used the ASCOM.DSLR.Test program that comes as part of the DSLR driver (thus eliminating SharpCap). I have upgraded to the latest ASCOM Platform (in order to retrieve the 'gain' setting). My versions are as follows: AS...

Ian

See viewtopic.php?t=2590
Have a look at this doc. Can you post back your images as shown in the first part plus a table of any tests. The USBtreeview image with your camera connected would be useful at this stage.

Dave

Peter A small adjustment of contrast/saturation (with PixInsight). Of course at this stage in processing it becomes 'adjustments subject to taste'. Bortle3 and a modern low noise camera make a good combination it seems. I would be interested to see the screenshots of FITS Liberator for a single 120s...

Peter

That looks a decent image. Stars not bloated, star colours evident, plenty of faint detail. Now you will be able to relate the SharpCap histogram to the likely outcome.

Dave

bluesilver At the start of an imaging session, I use FITS Liberator (v3) with a test frame to: Ensure I have a correctly exposed histogram (Min > 0, Max < 65535) with help from the clipping boxes on the right hand side of the window. Check the Image headers to ensure I have correctly set up all the ...

bluesilver Gap at left hand side of histogram = GOOD. This indicates that for your chosen gain and brightness you are not black clipped. Histogram at right hand side is hitting the vertical axis hard = BAD. Over-exposed at 180s, reduce the exposure until the histogram falls off and just reaches the ...

bluesilver Or am i just making this way more complicated than it should be? The only way to be sure is to capture both the 300s and 30s sets with your equipment, at your location and compare the results. Trawl the internet enough and you will find every possible scenario is 'the one'. All the above ...